We experienced the summer tradition of flowing somen (nagashi somen) and kawadoko cuisine in the Kibune area, known as Kyoto's hidden retreat ✨ Located about 1 hour by train and bus from central Kyoto, Kibune is nestled in a lush mountain valley and offers a cool escape even during summer. This report covers our summer day trip, from the atmospheric train journey on the Eizan Railway to the flowing somen experience at the renowned restaurant "Hirobun," and a visit to Kifune Shrine!

Bus from Kokusaikaikan Station to Kibuneguchi

We started from Kokusaikaikan Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Karasuma Line. Right outside the station exit is a bus terminal, where we boarded Kyoto Bus Route 52 heading toward Kibune. The fare is 310 yen, and it takes about 20 minutes to reach Kibuneguchi.

The bus travels through Kyoto's northern mountains, with lush green scenery spreading outside the windows. Swaying along on the bus, you can gradually feel yourself approaching the mountain-deep Kibune area.

Missed the Bus, 45-Minute Forest Walk

We arrived at the Kibuneguchi bus stop, but here came an unexpected happening: we missed the connecting bus to the Kibune area! Rather than wait for the next bus, we decided to walk.

From Kibuneguchi to the Kibune area, we walked for 45 minutes along the riverside path. While the connecting bus normally covers this distance in about 5 minutes, this unexpected 45-minute forest walk turned out to be a wonderful experience. Walking through the air full of negative ions while listening to the murmuring clear stream was incredibly healing.

Arriving at Hirobun, Receiving a Numbered Ticket

After the 45-minute walk, we arrived at Hirobun at 10:41 AM! First, we received a numbered ticket at reception. Our ticket number for the day was 29. Being such a popular flowing somen restaurant, many customers were already waiting.

After receiving the numbered ticket, we spent time strolling around the area and visiting Kifune Shrine until our number was called. This time, we waited for about 1 hour and 6 minutes and were seated at 11:47 AM. The wait is long, but it makes the anticipation grow!

The Cool Melody of the Clear Stream

One of Kibune's greatest charms is the pristine Kibune River. The transparent, emerald-green water flowing between rocks is refreshing just to watch. The soothing sound of the river's murmur helps you forget the hustle and bustle of the city.

Many ryokan (traditional inns) line the riverbank, and most set up "kawadoko" (riverside terraces) during summer. Kawadoko, where you can dine on tatami seating installed right above the river, is Kibune's summer tradition. Today we're heading to "Hirobun," a restaurant specializing in flowing somen.

Authentic Flowing Somen Experience at Hirobun

Special Dining Space on Kawadoko

"Hirobun" is a long-established restaurant known as the birthplace of flowing somen. The kawadoko seating is an atmospheric space with red Japanese umbrellas, with the Kibune River flowing beneath your feet. The air full of negative ions, the sound of flowing water, and rustling trees create the perfect background music.

Once seated, a long bamboo chute is installed in front of you. The essence of flowing somen is catching the somen noodles flowing through this bamboo chute with your chopsticks!

How to Enjoy Flowing Somen

White somen noodles flow from upstream with cold water. You time it just right and catch them with your chopsticks. It seems difficult at first, but as you get used to it, you can catch more and more, and it becomes really fun! Whether you come with family, as a couple, or with friends, it's guaranteed to be exciting!

The dipping sauce is an elegant Kyoto-style broth. Condiments including green onions, ginger, and sesame are provided, which you can arrange to your preference. The cold somen, the murmuring river, and the gentle breeze combine to create an experience where you can truly enjoy the coolness.

Pink Somen as a Signal

While enjoying the flowing somen, pink-colored noodles suddenly come flowing down. This is the signal that "it's almost finished." Unlike the white somen, these vibrant pink noodles are colored with plum or shiso (perilla). When you see the pink somen flowing, it's time for the final sprint!

Dishes Enjoyed with Flowing Somen

The 2,000 yen flowing somen set includes not just the noodles, but various other dishes as well. You can enjoy delicate Kyoto-style dishes such as salt-grilled ayu (sweetfish) and seasonal appetizers.

And at the end of the meal, "warabi mochi" is served as dessert. The plump-textured warabi mochi topped with brown sugar syrup and kinako (roasted soybean flour) perfectly concluded the meal after experiencing the coolness with flowing somen. This sweet dessert was the perfect ending.

Water Fortune-Telling Experience at Kifune Shrine

While waiting to be seated for flowing somen or after finishing your meal, visiting Kifune Shrine is recommended. Walking upstream along the riverside path, stone stairways appear. The red lanterns lining both sides are very photogenic, with many visitors taking commemorative photos here. Climbing the approach surrounded by greenery, we arrive at the main hall.

Try Your Fortune with Water Omikuji

Kifune Shrine's specialty is the "water fortune-telling slip" (mizu-uranai mikuji). You receive a pure white fortune slip, and when you immerse it in the sacred water within the shrine grounds, words mysteriously appear. This is a unique fortune-telling experience at Kifune Shrine, which enshrines the water deity, costing 200 yen per slip.

When you soak the paper in water, words gradually emerge. Along with fortunes like great luck, moderate luck, or bad luck, advice for the year is written. The sight of the fortune slip's text emerging when immersed in water is very mystical and moving. Please try it as a travel memory.

Points for Enjoying Kibune in Summer

Clothing and Items to Bring

Kibune is 5-10 degrees cooler than central Kyoto, so even in summer, having a light jacket is reassuring. The kawadoko seating can be cool at your feet, and you may get cold if you stay for a long time. Also, since you'll often walk on mountain paths, comfortable shoes are essential.

Best Season to Visit

Kawadoko operates from early May to late September. July to August after the rainy season is especially recommended. Even in midsummer, Kibune is ideal as Kyoto's summer retreat. Autumn foliage season is also beautiful, but note that kawadoko is not operating then.

Tips for Avoiding Crowds

Weekends, holidays, and especially the Obon period get very crowded. Weekday visits are recommended if possible. Also, early morning hours or late afternoon are relatively less crowded. Reservations are essential for popular flowing somen restaurants.

Return by Bus to Kokusaikaikan Station

After enjoying our time in Kibune, we retraced our steps. From Kibune by bus back to Kokusaikaikan Station. Taking the reverse route, we returned to central Kyoto while savoring the lingering atmosphere of Kibune.

Summary: Summer Day Trip to Feel the Coolness in Kyoto's Hidden Retreat

The flowing somen and kawadoko cuisine experience in Kibune represents Kyoto's summer tradition. Taking the bus from Kokusaikaikan Station for about 20 minutes, and though we had the unexpected experience of missing the bus and walking 45 minutes through the forest, this turned out to be a wonderful opportunity to fully enjoy Kibune's nature. The murmuring of the clear stream, somen flowing through bamboo chutes, the lush green scenery viewed from kawadoko, and water fortune-telling at Kifune Shrine. Everything combines to create a cool and special time.

Arriving at 10:41 AM, receiving numbered ticket #29, waiting about 1 hour and 6 minutes, and being seated at 11:47 AM—this waiting time can be spent strolling the area or visiting Kifune Shrine, so it's never wasted. Rather, the anticipation builds during this time, allowing you to enjoy the flowing somen even more.

Flowing somen is a participatory dining experience that everyone from children to adults can enjoy, so whether you come with family, as a couple, or with friends, any group is guaranteed to have a great time. For 2,000 yen, you can enjoy flowing somen, salt-grilled ayu, appetizers, and even warabi mochi dessert—excellent value. For your summer Kyoto travel memories, please add this refreshing time in Kibune✨